Pigs, Orchards, and Camping at the Business Resource Center

We spent a few days in the Methow Valley and I was lucky enough to do a farm tour at Crown S Ranch in Twisp, WA as part of a blogging project I’m doing for the American Farmland Trust. I don’t want to give the whole story away, but Crown S is run by two engineers–Jennifer and Louis–who decided to give up their engineering consulting practice several years ago to start a sustainable ranch. They are inspiring, incredibly hard-working people that almost can’t seem to help but apply the scientific method to farming. They ask WHY a lot and constantly learn and improve their ranching practices as a result.

I really liked their pigs. And the bacon I bought.

P1050761

We did a 70 mile ride yesterday from the Methow Valley through Okanogan, Omak, acres of apple orchards and finally stopped in Tonasket.

P1050784

We pitched our tent on a patch of grass behind the Tonasket Vistors and Business Resource Center. This is something they encourage:

We have a bicycle campground in the backyard of our building, with a 24 hour open restroom. We are in the process of installing a solar shower. We are located on Highway 97, which is a popular bike route, and are only 21 miles from the Canadian border (British Columbia). We love having visitors, and are also close to restaurants and grocery stores. Tonasket is at the intersection of Highway 97 and Highway 20.

P1050793

P1050792

An employee at the Business Resource Center said they host a lot of bikers in the “Bike Camp” in the summer. It’s a smart business development move for a small town like Tonasket to welcome hungry cyclists. Sean and I walked over to the Natural Food Co-op and dropped a chuck of change on local produce, cheese, cookies, and other tasty treats.

On to the Aeneas Valley to check out were my parents were “back-to-the-landers”  in the 1970s.

 

Six Days. Seven Counties.

King County: I’m off on another long distance bike tour. This time, across the United States and with a companion. Sean, my fiancé. The tour officially started last Friday on a brilliantly sunny day in Wallingford, one of Seattle’s many charming urban villages. We spent the prior afternoon clearing the last of our things out of our apartment and made final decisions about the items we were willing to pedal over mountains passes and across endless, windy stretches of road. All seemed to be going well with our packing until I discovered the condiments.

There were so many. We had two fish sauces, two sticky bottles of Trader Joe’s Soyaki Teriyaki Sauce, jams, horseradish, several kinds of mustard, and innumerable bottles of hot sauce. Condiments are a sign of stability; they accumulate when you stay in one place. I had mostly been positive and calm during the preceding days of packing, moving, wrapping work projects up, and goodbyes, but the condiments seemed to paralyze me. The sleepless nights spent thinking about packing details and last minute to-dos caught up with me as I stared blankly into the fridge and started to cry. Fortunately, crying quickly turned to laughter thanks to the arrival of our good friend Mary who came to help with the final move-out push. “Just give us the condiments and we’ll decide which ones to keep,” she assured me as we threw the last few bottles into a cardboard box. Mary and Mike have way too many hot sauces now, but condiments do not travel well.

.

My bike felt obese when I first got on it the next morning.

We biked past my favorite, overpriced coffee shop under the Aurora Bridge, past the marina that was my second home the summer of ‘10, and over the sparkling Ship Canal on the Fremont Bridge where Seattle’s first bike counter displayed a 4 digit number. The weather was perfect. Why did it have to be so damn beautiful the day we left? I felt like Seattle had put on her lipstick and most flattering outfit in one final attempt to show me that I was making the wrong decision to leave. But, it was too late. The condiments were gone. The boxes stored.

.

Waiting for the ferry, I looked at all the buildings. I spent thousands of hours in the office building on 1st and Spring–some hours stressful, some exhilarating, and many just ordinary. In other buildings, I remember tense meetings, giving presentations, speaking up, and quietly taking notes. I remember sitting in lobbies of other buildings silently rehearsing answers to possible interview questions when I was job-searching after college. There was my dad’s building. When I was a kid my mom and I would drive in the blue station wagon to 4th and Madison and pick him up when he missed the last bus. I loved the time alone in the car with my mom listening to Oldies together.

The ferry arrives, we ride on, and the Seattle skyline gets smaller and smaller.

Seattle

Kitsap County: After a short ferry ride and just 20 minutes of biking the city already feels far away. We turn up the road to Aaron and Dana’s farm and I see Dana weeding a row of spring greens. She is wearing overalls and a big farmer hat. She looks beautiful, strong, and healthy. Her freckles are already out in full force and it is just May. We hug and she tells me she is pregnant. I tell her congratulations and she tells me she feels like throwing up all the time. She tells me about how it feels to have morning sickness. Sean nods politely and I think about when I told Dana what “having a period” meant almost two decades ago when we were tomboys playing in the woods together. We keep the visit short, but I close my eyes tight when I hug her goodbye.

Jefferson County: Crossing the Hood Canal Bridge isn’t as scary as I expect. In fact, it isn’t scary at all. Relief.

We decide to camp at Oak Bay State Park. The campsite is on an isthmus and there are men in rubber boots digging for clams on the beach, but no other campers. I didn’t even know this place existed, but I really like it. I make vegetarian corn dogs for dinner with the cornmeal, flour, and Field Roasts we brought. Sean is in awe, but we both agree that a condiment would be nice.

P1050610

P1050611

We go to Port Townsend the next morning. The bike path into town is separated from the road and in the shade. Perfect. The town seems to be celebrating the weekend sun. We go to the Farmer’s Market, sit at a picnic table where a corgi is leashed, and eat an entire round of Mt. Townsend Creamery cheese with rolls. We don’t talk. We just look at the scene: street musicians, kids chasing each other, busy cooks at food carts, friends laying on the grass talking.

Island County: After we get enough of the Farmer’s Market, we take another ferry to Whidbey Island and the views are stunning. There are farms on rolling hills with the Olympic Mountains in the background. Part of the ride is on the Kettle Trails, another separated bike path–but then we approach Oak Harbor and not only does the path disappear, so does the shoulder. We eventually realize that we should have turned a few miles back to stay on the suggested bike route, but we don’t really have the energy to bike back up the steep hill into town, so we push forward on the busy road. Fortunately, the shoulder reappears a few miles out of town–but the last 19 miles of our ride is loud and somewhat stressful with a steady stream of cars and trucks passing us.

When we arrive at Deception Pass State Park, there is a long line of cars waiting to get into the park. Everyone is trying to enjoy the first sunny Saturday of the season. The overwhelmed park ranger informs that car ahead of us that all the campsites are full, but we stay in line to inquire about the hiker/biker campsites. Most Washington State Parks reserve campsites for campers arriving via human power–and we are in luck. There are open campsites for bikers. The park is teeming with people, but it is a beautiful night and after dinner we sit on the beach in the evening sun for almost an hour. When we get back to our tent, a friendly trio of British grad students bike touring from Vancouver to Mexico is at the campsite next to us.

Skagit County: After crossing the Deception Pass Bridge the next morning, and rallying to celebrate a Northwest version of Cinco de Mayo, we buy guacamole ingredients at a roadside fruit and vegetable stand. I make a delicious guacamole at Bay State Park on Padilla Bay while Sean unsuccessfully retraced several miles of our ride looking for his Crocs.

On Tuesday we wake up in the morning and I say goodbye to the ocean and the smell of salt water. I will miss that smell. We head east and spend most of the day on the old Skagit Highway–going past working and dilapidated farms. By mid-afternoon it is almost 90 degrees and I am exhausted. We stop at Chom’s Mini-Mart in Marblemount and buy provisions to help fuel our ride over the North Cascades. The selection is slim, but it’s the last store for almost 80 miles and we’ll burn a lot of calories the next day. After we pay, I ask the attendant if it would be possible to fill up our water bottles and without taking his eyes off the blaring TV screen, all he says is, “bathroom.”

I perk up after drinking some water and eating peanut butter M&Ms. We bike 15 more miles to Newhalem where we camp along the Skagit River for the night.

Whatcom County: The next morning we prepare to climb three mountain passes in order to get over the Cascades to the Methow Valley. It’s a Tuesday and the traffic on Highway 20 is very light. We go for 10 to 15 minutes at a time without any traffic passing. The day heats up quickly, but the mountain snow is melting quickly at this time of year and there are alpine streams at regular intervals providing shots of cool air, mist, and water. We pedal, drink water, stop occasionally for snacks and sunscreen–and pedal more. We get into a rhythm and eventually we gain enough elevation that there is snow on the sides of the road. As my head starts to get fuzzy from the heat, exertion, and repetition a car drives by and gives us a thumbs up and fist pumps out the sunroof. This small gesture seems to give me a boost.

Wa Pass_Edited

Okanogan County: In total, we do about 7,000 feet of climbing by the time we get to the third and final pass of the day–Washington Pass–at close to 6 PM. The descent into the valley is long and I have a smile plastered on my face. I wear a down jacket and although I can feel the temperature increase as we descend there are still pockets of incredibly cold air from the icy streams feeding into the Methow River. Although we have a cabin to stay in just 40 miles away, there is no way we can bike anymore and so we set-up camp at the bottom of the Pass. We eat a huge dinner and relax. We’re surrounded by jagged mountains that are pink and orange. Then, as the sun sets, the pinks and oranges disappear and the mountains become muted colors of gray, black and white. While biking into Winthrop the next morning, an old man yells at us, “Looks like you two are the first cross-countriers of the year!”   

Crocs

Wow. We’ve been enjoying WA State at it’s very best. The views of Mt Rainier, the Olympics, Baker, and the N Cascades are unreal.

We’re currently in Burlington after spending the weekend enjoying the coast: Deception Pass, Port Townsend, and Padilla Bay.

All is well…except Sean “Croc Rocket” Lee-Siebels lost his Crocs yesterday. He was really upset. Posting from Big 5 where replacements have just been purchased. Headed for the mountains. Longer update from Twisp, WA.

My Correspondence With Weather Celebrity Cliff Mass

I’ve given several presentations about my Stevens Fellowship at various organizations in the Seattle area over the last month. I enjoy sharing what I’ve learned with others who are eager to make cycling a more mainstream form or transportation–and the presentations are also a great way to promote my new Active Transportation practice area at Cascadia Consulting Group.  

Since returning home to Seattle, I’ve realized that bicycle infrastructure alone isn’t enough. Yes, it’s certainly important to have great infrastructure, but many of the places I traveled to didn’t have perfect bike infrastructure and yet cycling rates were still very high. Tokyo and Kyoto, for example, have almost no bike infrastructure, but rates of cycling are still four to five times higher than Seattle. Why?  Cycling is a cultural norm in Japan. Everybody does it. Rain or shine.

That leads me to my next point. A question I’ve been getting over and over again is–”what do people in these places do when it rains? Do they still ride their bikes?”

The short answer is yes. Rain is just part of the deal.

Here is my long answer.

First, although my dear friend Mikael Colville-Anderson will hate me for this, here are a few clothing tips that I’ve found helpful when getting dressed on a rainy morning in Seattle. Remember: no need to go crazy buying bike “gear,” these are just a few ideas for you about practical, stylish clothes that work well on Dexter Ave. or in the office conference room.

Getting the right pair of jeans matters. Avoiding denim is smart when you live in a rainy climate because cotton-based clothes don’t stand up to moisture very well. I have four pairs of these Silence and Noise skinny jeans. They are 90% Spandex, but they look like jeans and feel great to ride in.

My next great fashion find that works well with my cycling lifestyle is this La Selva raincoat. If I have boots on and this rain jacket my knees are the other thing exposed to the rain.

BLACK

Thanks to my mom for spotting this jacket for me while we were down in Portland a few weekends ago doing some urban adventuring.  Isn’t she cute?

ImageImageImage

Sean also is obsessed with anything made out of merino wool because it drys really fast. I didn’t really understand his deal with Merino wool until he got me an Icebreaker shirt for Christmas and now I understand.  According to Icebreaker, “merino’s fleece is built for extremes – breathable in summer, insulating in winter, yet exceptionally soft and lightweight.”  It’s classy too.

The Japanese invented bike umbrellas which are very effective at shielding you from rain, but do cause you to slow down a bit. I also saw a lot of people in Tokyo and Kyoto just holding umbrellas while they were riding in the rain.

ImageImageImageImage

Lastly, I’ve also noticed that even on what feels like a very rainy day, I often end up on my bike and realize it isn’t raining at all. I certainly still get completely drenched every so often, but more often than not I’m surprised by how dry I stay in Seattle. I decided to ask University of Washington Professor, Cliff Mass about this.  Professor Mass is famous for his weather prediction research–and I also happened to know that he gets to work on a bicycle.  Here is his e-mail to me from earlier this week:

Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:07 PM
To: Christine Grant
Subject: bike weather

Christine,
I am glad you like my blog.   Regarding frequency of rain, we
basically have that information….all we would need to know is how long your bike ride is and what time of the day.  As a bike commuter myself….I would give the percentages are roughly 20% in the winter to 5% or less midsummer.  But by using the weather radar intelligently, it would be possible to greatly reduce that number…particularly in avoiding heavy rain.  That is what I do…and a rarely get superwet since even on rainy days there are
breaks.   Perhaps someone will support the development of a bicycle
web site that has all this information…take care..cliff

Professor Clifford F. Mass
Department of Atmospheric Sciences,
Box 351640
University of Washington
Seattle, Washington 98195
(206) 685-0910

I don’t have access to the same weather radar that Professor Mass has, but Sean introduced me to a weather website–Weather Spark–that gives by the hour weather prediction. It can be useful sometimes–but often I don’t have a choice about when I leave for work or home.  The good news is that if I ride my bike at about the same time every day I’m probably going to have a dry ride at least 80% of the time. Even in Seattle!   .

The ~20% of the rides that are rainy make me appreciate the sunny days even more.

Seen on Dexter

After looking out my office window at snow flurries for most of the day, I was surprised to have such a dry and sunny ride home. I really could have used my sunglasses.

I was also surprised to see a skateboarder in the bike lane. It isn’t just bikers who benefit from bike lanes!

Seattle (37.17 in.) Receives Less Precipitation Annually Than New York City (47.28 in)…

….Atlanta (50.79 in.), Boston (41.53 in.), Baltimore (40.87 in.), Portland, Maine (44.41 in.), Jacksonville, Florida (51.34 in.), and most cities on the Eastern Seaboard of the U.S.

Other things you might like about Seattle.

The “Mushroom Farm” at [storefront] Olson Kundig Architects.

Alley parties in Pioneer Square.

The skyline.

A sunny Saturday on Capitol Hill. (Today–Sunday–I’m reading The Death and Life of Great American Cities by Jane Jacobs.  This quote really struck a cord for me, “In cities, liveliness and variety attract more liveliness; deadness and monotony repeal life.” Yesterday, Capitol Hill was full of people who simply seemed attracted to the liveliness of the area. Later in the day, my roommate commented that Ravenna (where I’m currently living), “feels sad.” “Why don’t we ever go to the restaurants in Ravenna?” she asked. Maybe because it just isn’t lively enough.  As Jan Gehl says, “the more nothing happens the more nothing happens.”)

Finding a bike in Seattle with a skirt guard.

Checking out a bike polo game in Cal Anderson park.

This dog–who got parked alongside a few bikes outside of Melrose Market.

Celebration of Rural Cycling and a Bike Ferry to Salt Spring Island

In late June I will be biking (and ferrying) up to Salt Spring Island in British Columbia, Canada for  Velo Village–a rural mobility conference. The actual conference is on Friday June 22nd and the rest of the weekend is going to be a celebration of rural cycling. I’ll be giving a presentation on Friday about the bike touring systems I researched and used while travelling across Europe this summer and fall, including EuroVelo (all of the EU), Sustrans (UK), SchweizMobil (CH), Knooppuntroutes (NL), and other bicycle highway systems. The focus of my presentation will be on how these bike touring systems can increase tourism in rural areas.  You can sign up for the conference here.

The rest of the weekend will literally be a celebration of rural cycling and Salt Spring is apparently going to be transformed to a “bicycle heaven on earth.”  Velo Village will be like a Fringe Festival – everyone will be asked to register for a low cost ($10.00) and they’ll get a button that will give them access to all of the events, workshops, performances…etc. They are expecting about 1,000 cyclists to come to the island for the weekend. Velo Village organizer, John Rowlandson, just e-mailed me with some exciting news:

After 5 months of talking we inked the deal with BC Ferries yesterday for a special bicycle only sailing to Salt Spring on Sat June 23rd! First time in BC coastal history! The 100 meter ferry holds 400+ cyclists/bikes! http://saltspringexchange.com/list/the-bike-ferry/

So, if you come up on Saturday the 10:00 AM crossing from Swartz Bay is going to be a bike-only party followed by a 400-person group ride to Ganges.

Also, Happy Valentine’s Day!

Here is a fun article by Amy Walker titled Does Cycling Make you a Better Lover? that was published in Momentum Magazine in 2009.  I stumbled upon it a few months ago and really liked it.

In a 1999 article for Bicycling magazine, author Joe Kita claimed “cycling has the power not only to make you more desirable to the opposite sex, but also to increase your level of sexual satisfaction, and even your lovemaking ability.” Citing greater blood circulation, heightened sex drive, lower stress, extra endurance, stronger thrusting muscles, more endorphins, and greater confidence, Kita made the case that cycling is conducive to making whoopie. In addition to these stimulating observations, we’ve noticed that riding a bicycle has other, less carnal, and equally love-affirming qualities.

Some say love is the opposite, not of hate, but of fear. By conquering fear in our everyday lives, we invite love. Learning to balance and ride on two wheels is an exhilarating experience, partly because falling is frightening. When we first accomplish this marvel, a tiny voice inside us exclaims: “I am riding, not falling! I am flying, not falling!” Simple acts like pedaling up a big hill, across town, through nasty weather, or balancing with a week’s groceries loaded on the bike are the daily conquest of tiny fears. As fear falls away there is more room for joy.

For love to have longevity, it must be a practical part of the daily rhythm of life. In his book entitled We author Robert A. Johnson describes “stirring-the-oatmeal” love as: “a relatedness which brings love down to earth. It represents a willingness to share ordinary human life, to find meaning in the simple, unromantic tasks: earning a living, living within a budget, putting out the garbage, feeding the baby in the middle of the night.” Likewise, daily pedal-stroking lends us the endurance to take in stride all the small occasions of the day that make life – and love – real, and not a distant fantasy. 

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Saturation

Ah. It’s good to be away from Rome. It’s a city that isn’t high on my list of places to return to—something I don’t think I’ve said about a single place I’ve visited over the last six months, except perhaps that trailer park in middle-England that I camped at for all of about six hours.

Let me start by saying what we all know–Rome is like no other place. Events in Roman history shaped many aspects of civilization as we know it. My visit to the Italian capital helped me access the information I eagerly absorbed in high school history classes about the Roman empire (however, Wikipedia and a book about Rome greatly aided my fuzzy recollections of various events in Roman history). I wanted to like Rome. So, why did I find myself feeling disappointed as I walked around the city? Mainly, I was disappointed in my own imagination.

 

Nothing I saw walking through the Forum and Colosseum was able to help me pretend—just a few moments—that it wasn’t 2012. It wasn’t anything like visiting the Mayan ruins of Tikal where I actually could imagine what Mayan civilization might have been like. In fact, part of me wished that my image of Rome could remain as it was in Mrs. Sauers history class. My inability to appreciate the historical and archaeological aspects of Rome was probably my fault—my concerns about modern Roman civilization were consuming my thoughts. Perhaps my “Homosapien habitat” glasses were on a little too firmly.

 

What are my “Homosapien habitat” glasses? They are my glasses that I wear when I try to understand why I like or dislike a city. I think about how the city makes me feel. How other people in the city move throughout the urban environment. How they interact with each other. Are there public spaces where I feel at ease? Is it easy to cross the street?

 

Rome scored low, in my opinion, in it’s treatment of humans. The design of the city prioritizes history and cars, not people.

 

I stayed at the end of the A Metro Line, at a place fairly removed from the urban core of the city, but still I woke up each morning to the sound of angry honks from cars stuck in traffic on the nearby street. People in Rome literally just lay on the horn for 10 to 20 seconds! I had to walk a short distance to get to the Metro station and there was no sidewalk in most places. The smell of diesel exhaust quickly filled my nostrils and cars along this stretch of road almost seemed to purposely accelerate as they drove past me in what felt like an expression of their dominance over the road. The Metro system was easy to use, but not my preferred way to move around a city. You miss seeing so much moving through the city underground.

 

I didn’t even bother looking into renting a bike in Rome because biking in Rome would be stupid. We all have a different threshold for risk. I made a friend in Copenhagen who lived in Paris recently and she didn’t ride a bike there because it felt too risky compared to Copenhagen. I, however, didn’t mind cycling in Paris (even though the bicycle infrastructure still needs some major improvements). There were a few parts of Paris that were difficult and stressful to navigate, but the number of other people—especially other woman—on bikes gave me a sense of security riding my bike there.

 

Rome was a different story. I felt absolutely no desire to get on a bicycle. I saw less than five people on bikes during the course of my visit. In Rome’s defense, there had been a very light snow the day before I arrived and this had thrown the entire city into a tizzy for several days. (The reaction to the snow was somewhat comical; many businesses were still closed ‘due to snow’ three days after the snowfall when there was almost no snow left on the ground and the sun was out.) So, perhaps the usual balance of the transportation system had been thrown off, but still, through my conversations and research I learned that cycling rates are incredibly low in Rome even when there isn’t snow on the ground. I’m really glad I don’t live in Rome.


A 28-year-old woman on a bicycle had recently been killed here.

Roman drivers are vicious. They seem to despise everyone else on the road—other drivers, cyclists, pedestrians—everyone. Crosswalks are a joke. I finally realized that I just had to step out into the road and then the cars would essentially drive around me. The drivers avoided making eye contact and playing dumb seemed to be a common tactic for getting the upper hand in a traffic negotiations with pedestrians. The, “oh, sorry, didn’t see you” attitude was prevalent with many drivers—even if you were standing right in front of them. I actually yelled, “stop trying to kill me” at a driver who just kept rolling towards me as I attempted to get across a crosswalk. The driver made some pissed-off, uniquely-Italian gesture at me and speed off. It’s no wonder why Rome has one of the highest rates of traffic accidents in Europe. Spending so much of the week walking through a city—rather than cycling—really reinforced the idea that pedestrians are the softest users of the road. You don’t have speed on your side so it feels like you’re more exposed.

While at Copenhagenize, Mikael often talked about the “bull in the china shop.” Cars are the bull and anything outside of a car is the china shop. It is essential that people who live in cities stop ignoring the bull. Once you start to think about the urban environment in this context it is amazing how many ignoring the bull examples you see and hear about on a daily basis. For example, yesterday I read about a woman in Brooklyn who was speeding, ran a red light, crashed into an apartment building, and hit another car. This woman sounds like one serious bull to me. Here’s a report on the accident.

…her black Lincoln Navigator passed through a light and smashed into a Toyota Corolla heading west on Boerum Place, an onlooker said. After drifting about 50 feet, the SUV slammed into a tree before hitting the scaffolding at the condominium Boulevard East.

There was a huge rumble and it sounded like the whole scaffolding came down,” said Joe Stanfa, president of the condo’s board. “We’re just glad no pedestrians were hurt. There was smoke coming from the cars.”

Cops said the woman — who was pinned in her car and rescued with the Jaws of Life — would not be charged in the crash.

WHAT?! No charge?! So I can ram an SUV into other cars and buildings without getting any sort of charge? This is a classic example of police ignoring the bull.

Rome suffers tremendously from ignoring the bull. Walking in Rome is not only unpleasant because of the aggressive drivers, but the air pollution and noise from cars really detracts from your ability to enjoy the city. The air pollution was almost on par with Mexico City and Shanghai. I tried to walk as much as possible between destinations, but would sometimes give up and take the Metro, not because I got tired of walking, but because the air pollution would make me light-headed if I was near a busy street. Throughout the touristy parts of the city you’ll see these large air pollution abatement machines that are about the size of a food cart, humming away, sucking harmful air particulates in that would have otherwise gone into people’s lungs.

For some reason, seeing this machines reminded me of an article I read recently about Richard Jackson, the former head of the National Center for Environmental Health at the Center for Disease Control. Here’s a quote from the article:

Treatments could come in the form of pills, inhalers, and insulin shots, but real solutions had bigger implications. “More and more, I came to the conclusion that this is about how we build the world that we live in,” he says.

Last year, air safety limits in Rome were exceeded 56 times and the city experienced six consecutive days of emergency level air pollution. Rome has found that in many parts of the city with high levels of traffic congestion there are also dangerously high levels of nitrogen dioxide and PM10. These particles can bypass natural human filters—like the nose and throat—and get into your bloodstream, increasing your chances for various kinds of cancers. The air pollution abatement machines are band-aids. An unsustainable and and undignified solution to a problem that stems from an unwillingness to tackle the real problem—rampant overuse of the car and lack of investment in sustainable mobility options. What also upset me about these machines was that I didn’t see a single one in the poorer areas where tourists don’t typically go, but where air quality is just as bad.

Rome is trying, but it will be a slow process. The city has one of the highest rates of car ownership in the world: about 76 cars per every 100 inhabitants. And with cars comes sprawl, making the situation even harder to reverse. I noticed that there were so many more luxury cars in Rome than Copenhagen—which seemed strange because Denmark is one of the wealthiest places in the world while Italy’s economy is struggling. Then I remembered that Danes pay a 200% tax on car purchases. Danish drivers pay for the negative externalities associated with driving upfront. The price of a car in Denmark reflects the true cost of driving. I haven’t talked very much about the environmental impacts of driving on this blog because I haven’t wanted to seem like a finger wagging environmentalist. In fact, I don’t even consider myself an environmentalist. I did take some economics classes in college though and I happen to believe that the cost of driving is vastly under-priced in most parts of the world. That’s good for car companies, but bad for just about everyone else in society. 

The title of this blog post is called ‘Saturation’ and you might be wondering what that’s all about. “Saturation” is a term that was used a lot by the car industry in the 1920s and 30s in the United States. Car sales weren’t so hot in American cities at that time. Americans didn’t need or want cars. In fact, a lot of Americans thought cars were intruders in cities and the high rate of child traffic fatalities further reinforced Americans dislike of cars for most of the 1920s. The market was saturated. The car industry called it a “saturation crisis” and began blaming city planners and traffic engineers for the flagging sales. Traffic engineers at that time were primarily focused on equity and the safety of all road users in cities. As a result, they kept streets narrow, speed limits low, and curb parking for cars very limited. In the early 1920s American cities didn’t have the money and didn’t feel responsible for building infrastructure for this highly inefficient form of transportation. A quote from the book Fighting Traffic:

Above all, engineers faulted automobiles for their prodigal use of space. “They occupy either while in motion or while parked, space all together out of proportion to their transportation efficiency,” one engineer wrote.

A St. Paul engineer found that an occupant of an automobile required 10.7 times as much space as a street car rider.

The car companies realized that to overcome the saturation crisis they needed a new breed of traffic engineers that would be willing to redesign city streets to accommodate cars and increase speed limits. The real turning point in the saturation crisis was in 1926 when Studebaker—a car company—donated funds to Harvard University to establish the Albert Russell Erskine Bureau for Street Traffic Research. Miller McClintock—a former Studebaker employee—became the director of the Bureau of Street Traffic Research and soon Harvard-educated traffic “experts” were hitting the streets advising cities all over the US to widen roads and accept that this was the “motor age.” The message was that resisting automobiles was old-fashioned and against progress.

Miller McClintock had a PhD from Harvard and had studied traffic control extensively. However, prior to being hired for Studebaker, McClintock wrote that, “widening streets would merely attract more vehicles to them, leaving traffic as congested as before. It seems desirable to give trolley cars the right of way under general conditions, and to place restrictions on motor vehicles in their relations with street cars.” He also published an article in the early 1920s describing automobiles as “the greatest public destroyer of human life.”

But, after working briefly for Studebaker and then being appointed director of the Studebaker-backed Bureau for Street Traffic Research, his tune changed dramatically in just a two year period. McClintock now thought that cities should “adjust their physical layout to the requirements of an automobile age. When those adjustments take place the motor car owner will profit greatly in increased speed and efficiency.”

Another quote from Fighting Traffic:

In Miller McClintock, the auto industry had, by 1927, an articulate and credible spokesman, the first traffic expert with a doctorate in his field. He was insulated from any obvious affiliation with industry by a Harvard byline. And at the industry’s expense, he was turning out more such experts each year.

So, there’s your history lesson for the day. McClintock probably didn’t realize what dramatic consequences his decision to back Studebakers’s agenda would have on the world, but he successfully solved the “saturation crisis.” Cities are filled with cars—but as McClintock aptly noted in the early 1920′s—cars aren’t moving people around cities very efficiently.

Visiting Rome provided some good time for reflection—about history and the mark we can make on history.

P.S. StreetFilms has some interesting videos about the history of cars in urban American. The series is called, Fixing the Great Mistake.